A textured knit piece made with only knit and purl stitches.

Reading Your Knitting 1: Understand Knit and Purl

Become stitch savvy and start knitting better today.

One of easiest ways to improve your knitting is learning how to “read” your work, thus preventing mistakes or noticing them sooner. When you can tell the difference between a knit and a purl stitch, you’ll know what you’ve just worked—and what stitch comes next. I can’t overstate the importance of becoming knitting literate to improving your craft.

Do I still make mistakes? Yes. But that is usually because I am knitting while binge-watching Gilmore Girls, working a fancy cable in the round, and trying not to burn my mouth on my tea. When I'm paying attention to my work, I rarely do. (Make mistakes, that is. The mouth-burning? Eh.) The good news: you can learn how to do this, too.

(Side note: If I AM going to make a mistake, I try to make it a good one—like a dropped stitch 35 rows back that only just now became noticeable as I am working the decreases. Or crossing a cable the wrong way, half a section down. Sometimes these can be fixed. Sometimes the work has to be ripped out. More on the fixes—and the difference—later.)

Just to make sure I don't miss anything, we are going to start at the VERY BEGINNING.

Pin: Learn to read knit & purl stitches with knitwear designer Talena Winters.

What the Purl is a Stockinette?

When you start anything new, there's all this lingo—at this point, I am going to assume you already know how to make a knit and a purl stitch. If not, take a few minutes to toodle on over to the How to Knit section of my site and find out.

(If this is your first venture into knitting at all, I recommend beginning with the Continental-style tutorials. Continental knitting holds the working yarn in your left hand instead of your right. This style requires less movement of your hands, and can therefore be much faster and less stressful on your joints once you get the hang of it. I may create my own videos at some point, but there are so many great tutorial videos out there already. And this page is about reading your knitting, not teaching you how to do it. If you are looking for how to knit, go check out my free, comprehensive How to Knit tutorial.)

What I have found with beginner knitters is that although they may know how to make the stitches they still can't recognize them.

I am going to show you the difference between knit and purl using a swatch in stockinette stitch. Stockinette simply means that you will knit every row on one side of the work, and purl every row on the other. If you are knitting in the round, as long as you just knit, then you naturally create stockinette stitch.

Knit Side

The knit side of stockinette looks like a bunch of nested Vs, or like little chevrons.

Image Below: Stockinette stitch swatch (knit side). Notice the columns of Vs and the smooth look of the fabric.

At the bottom of the swatch above, I did three rows of garter stitch—that means that I knit every row, which creates ridges since the backs of the stitches look like purl bumps.

(I start and end my swatches in garter stitch, as it helps the swatch to lay flatter. Stockinette naturally curls to the purl side.)

The knit side also tends to look like columns going up and down, which is all of your stitches sitting neatly on top of each other in their lovely connected loops. The rows are trickier to see because of the ups and downs of the chevron-shaped stitches. (When counting stitches in a gauge swatch, you want to lay your ruler straight across one of these rows and count the columns within your required measurement.)

Image below: Column and row on the knit side.

Just Plain Mittens (Multi-Pattern Bundle)

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CA$15.00

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Knit love in every stitch.

These hand-specific gusset-style mittens might seem to be the height of basic—ribbed cuff in two length variations and stockinette hand, knit in the round from the cuff down—but they come loaded with options. The pattern is written in three yarn weights (bulky, worsted, and fingering) and six different sizes from Toddler up to Adult Extra-Large. The fingering weight can also be made up as liners to really bring on the cozy!

Make these even more interesting by using them as a base for your favourite colour charts. Just Plain Mittens? Just plain awesome!

Bonus Fleece Liner: If you want the warmth of two layers but don't want to take the time to knit up the fingering weight liners, use the included fast-finish sewn fleece liner pattern to double it up!

PROJECT LEVEL: Easy

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Digital download includes:

PDF (standard) - best for printing or for sighted knitters
PDF (Screen Reader Accessible Large-Print) - best for Print Challenged knitters and reading on phones
EPUB (eBook) - best for anyone who wants reflowable, resizable text
PDF (standard) of Sewn Liner Patterns

Refer to “Accessibility” below for more information about file types.

Printing Instructions: When printing the sewn liner patterns, choose the “Print Actual Size” option in your print dialogue box to make sure they are sized accurately.

About Collection

Just Plain Collection

Fast, fun, and easy. The Just Plain Collection is the perfect way for you to unleash your creativity.

Sized to include everyone, knitting patterns in this collection are written for multiple yarn weights (fingering, worsted, and bulky)*, with each weight written separately. As such, they are excellent starting points to create cozy garments and accessories when used as written, or as blank canvases so you can apply your own creativity.

Get started on the Just Plain Collection today!

* Except for the Just Plain Socks patterns, which are written for any size but only designed for fingering-weight yarn.

About Design

Construction

Mittens are worked from the cuff down with a thumb gusset, raglan finger shaping finished seamlessly with Kitchener stitch (grafting), and finished with the thumb, which is picked up and worked in the round.

Variants

Instructions for three yarn weights: bulky, worsted, and fingering.
Can be lined or unlined.
Cuff can be long or short.
Liners can be knit from fingering-weight yarn or sewn from fleece.

Sizes

This garment has no ease, and it is better to round up than down. The following measurements are the circumference above the thumb. It is best to have a tracing of the recipients’ hand as well as the hand circumference to size accurately.

Toddler: 5.5 inches (or 14 cm)
Child: 6.5 inches (or 16.5 cm)
Junior & Adult Small: 7.5 inches (or 19 cm)
Adult Medium: 8.5 inches (or 21.5 cm)
Adult Large: 9.5 inches (or 24 cm)
Adult Extra-Large: 10.5 inches (or 26.5 cm)

Supplies & Gauge

Bulky Weight

Yarn

1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) balls plied bulky-weight yarn with 125 metres in 100 grams (or 137 yards in 3.53 ounces).

Approximate yardages: 67 (95, 122, 152, 174, 197) yards [or 61 (87, 112, 139, 159, 180) metres].

(I used Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Superwash Bulky. Some sample photos show Knit Picks Biggo, which has been discontinued.)

Needles

Set of four 5.0 mm (US 8, UK 6) double-pointed needles (or, optionally, two circular needles of this size or one very long circular needle for Magic Loop Method instead) OR size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions

Yarn needle; several stitch markers.

Gauge

20 stitches and 26 rounds = 4 inches (or 10 cm) over stockinette stich in the round.

Worsted Weight

Yarn

1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3) balls worsted-weight yarn with 99 metres in 50 grams (or 110 yards in 1.76 ounces).

Approximate yardages: 82 (116, 150, 187, 214, 242) yards [or 75 (107, 137, 171, 196, 221) metres].

(I used Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Superwash.)

Needles

Set of four 4.0 mm (US 6, UK 8) double-pointed needles (or, optionally, two circular needles of this size or one very long circular needle for Magic Loop Method instead) OR size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions

Yarn needle; several stitch markers.

Gauge

22 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches (or 10 cm) over stockinette stich in the round. TAKE TIME TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE!

Fingering Weight (Shell or Liner)

Yarn

Fingering-weight yarn with 207.9 metres in 50 grams (or 231 yards in 1.76 ounces).

SHELL: 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2) balls.

Approximate yardages: 95 (135, 187, 216, 247, 280) yards [or 87 (123, 171, 198, 226, 255) metres]. (I used Knit Picks Chroma.)

LINER: 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2) balls.

Approximate yardages: 85 (121, 167, 213, 221, 250) yards [or 77 (110, 153, 195, 202, 229) metres]. (I used Knit Picks Stroll.)

Needles

Set of four 3.25 mm (US 3, UK 10) double-pointed needles (or, optionally, two circular needles of this size or one very long circular needle for Magic Loop Method instead) OR size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions

Yarn needle; several stitch markers.

Gauge

30 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches (or 10 cm) over stockinette stich in the round.

Fleece Lining (Optional)

Scrap of polar or arctic fleece at least 12 inches long and 30 inches wide (or 30 centimetres long and 75 centimetres wide). The stretch needs to be in the width of the fabric.)
Thread
Sewing needle

About Samples

Bulky Yellow, Dark Grey, and Brown:

Knit Picks Biggo, a plied 50% Superwash merino wool and 50% Nylon bulky-weight yarn with 101 metres in 100 grams (or 110 yards in 3.53 ounces) that works up to 12 to 15 stitches in four inches (or ten centimetres) on 6.0 to 8.0 mm (US 10 to 11) needles over stockinette stitch knit flat.

Colourway: Golden Heather; Size: 2 (Child).
Colourway: Cobblestone Heather; Size: 4 (Adult Medium).
Colourway: Reindeer Heather; Size: 2 (Child).

This yarn has been discontinued. As of 2025, this pattern has been redesigned and tested for the yarn below.

Bulky Green and Dark Teal:

Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Superwash Bulky, a plied 100% Highland Superwash wool yarn with 125 metres in 100 grams (or 137 yards in 3.53 ounces) that works up to 12 to 15 stitches in 4 inches (or 10 cm) on 6 to 8 mm (US 10 to 11 or UK 4 to 0) needles in stockinette stitch knit flat.

Colourway: Bamboo Heather; Size: 2 (Child).
Colourway: Marina; Size: 3 (Junior & Adult Small).

Worsted Yellow:

Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Superwash Worsted, a plied 100% Superwash merino wool with 101 metres in 50 grams (or 110 yards in 1.76 ounces) that works up to 18 to 20 stitches on 4.0 to 5.5 mm (US 6 to 9) needles over stockinette stitch flat.

Size: 2 (Child).
Colourway: Creme Brulee.

Worsted Pink:

Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Superwash Worsted.

Size: 3 (Ladies).
Colourway: Dogwood Heather.

Fingering Blue Gradient:

Knit Picks Chroma Fingering, a single-ply 70% wool & 30% nylon fingering-weight yarn with 362 metres in 100 grams (or 396 yards in 3.53 ounces) that works up to 28 to 32 stitches in four inches (or ten centimetres) on 2.25 to 3.0 mm (US 1 to 2 1/2) needles over stockinette stitch knit flat.

Size: 3 (Ladies).
Colourway: Avalon.

Fingering Turquoise Liners:

Knit Picks Stroll Fingering, a plied 75% Superwash merino wool & 25% nylon fingering-weight yarn with 211 metres in 50 grams (231 yards in 1.76 ounces) that works up to 28 to 32 stitches in four inches (or ten centimetres) on 2.25 to 3.25 mm (US 1 to 3) needles over stockinette stitch knit flat.

Size: 2 (Child).
Colourway: Wonderland Heather.

Techniques & Resources

Skills you will need:

Knit
Purl
Make a gauge swatch in stockinette stitch

All other required stitches are explained.

Techniques used:

Knitting in the round using one or two circular or a set of double-pointed needles
One-by-one ribbing
Basic decreases
Super-Stretchy Cast On
Kitchener Stitch (or Grafting)
Hand or machine sewing fleece liners (if you choose to line them this way)

Included resources:

A comprehensive list of links to online tutorials on my website for necessary skills. Tutorials are screen-reader accessible, with instructions relayed fully in text, and also include videos and downloadable photo tutorials.
Schematic
Garment measurements
Full glossary
Instructions for alterations
Sewing patterns for fleece liners in every size
Photographic and written instructions for sewing fleece liners

Publishing Information

Version: 2

Release Date: 2016, 2025

Publisher: My Secret Wish Publishing

Knitting pattern type: Multiple Yarn Weight Options; Multiple Design Options; Multi-Pattern Set

Project type: Mittens with optional mitten liners

Page Count (Standard PDF): 20

Page Count (Large Print PDF): 75

Page Count (Sewn Liner Patterns PDF): 12

ISBN (Standard PDF): 978-1-989800-57-7

ISBN (Large Print PDF): 978-1-989800-58-4

ISBN (ePUB): 978-1-989800-56-0

COPYRIGHT AND LICENSING NOTICE:

This pattern is copyright My Secret Wish by Talena. Your purchase of this pattern gives you the right to use it for personal, non-profit use only. To license the pattern to use for profit, please e-mail me for permission. You do NOT have the right to print the pattern for other people (unless they reside in your household) or to transfer the digital file to any other person. This pattern may not be sold, copied, or distributed in any way.

Update History

First published in 2016.

2025-02-01:

Redesigned Bulky Weight version to use Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Superwash Bulky yarn.
Redesigned thumbs to be straight instead of tapered.
Added schematic.
Tech edited.
Added pattern graphics for sewn liners.
Added one size (Adult Extra Large - 10.5" circ.).

You will get a ZIP (34MB) file

Visit product page

Purl Side

The purl side looks like a bunch of little bumps all in rows. If you look closely, you can see that each row you knit actually creates two staggered rows of bumps that alternate with each other.

This side is also referred to as reverse stockinette.

Image below: Stockinette stitch swatch (purl side). Notice the ridges of bumps that look like little offset bricks.

The columns are there, too, but they are harder to see on this side. You have to choose a bump on either the top or bottom part of a row and follow all the bumps stacked directly on top of it to see the column of stitches. (When you count rows for a gauge swatch, you want to line your ruler up straight along the column and count these bumps.)

Image below: Column and row on the purl side.

Am I knitting or purling?

Have you ever set down your work for a minute, and when you come back to it, you’re not sure where to start, or what you should be doing next?

At the beginning of a row, your needle with the work on it will be in your non-dominant hand, ready to work. Look at your first stitch. Is it a knit or a purl stitch? Chevron or bump?

Sometimes it can be a little hard to tell what the first stitch is, as they tend to be a little loosy-goosy. (In my swatch above, I actually slipped the first stitch of every row, which means I just moved it from one needle to the other without working it. This helps tighten up the edge a little.)

Here's another way to tell: if you're working in stockinette stitch and your working yarn is coming from the back of the needle, you should knit. If it is coming from the front of the needle, then you should purl.

Unless you're starting your rows with a garter stitch border. Then knit either way. :-)

Of course, if you're working a stitch that changes what you are doing every row or two (for instance, seed stitch or moss stitch), then you can still use these clues to help you figure out what your last stitch was—and do the opposite.

When working stockinette stitch:

Yarn in back: time to knit
Yarn in front: time to purl (maybe)

Purl side with yarn in front of the needle.

TL;DR:

So, to sum up, this is how you recognize knit and purl stitches:

Knit - looks like a chevron or a V, stacks up in columns, yarn comes off back of needle
Purl - looks like bumps, lines up in horizontal rows, yarn comes off front of needle

Now if you're working a stitch pattern with knits and purls in succession, you'll know how to tell them apart. Ribbing, here you come!

Image below: Alternating columns of knit and purl stitches.

Up next:

In my next Reading Your Knitting tutorial, I will be talking about how to catch and fix “wrong stitches” and other knitting mistakes.

Happy knitting!

Also in this series:

Reading Your Knitting Part 2: Fixing Mistakes

Reading Your Knitting Part 3: Recognize Increases and Decreases

Reading Your Knitting Part 4: Reading Cables

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About My Secret Wish Knitting

Hi! I’m Talena Winters (a.k.a. the Yarn Mermaid).

I started My Secret Wish Knitting in 2010 to empower and delight knitting heroes like you who want to elevate your knitting and make magic with yarn. When I’m not concocting new yarn potion recipes, I’m creating story magic as a fantasy and romance author and fiction editor (at talenawinters.com). I live with my family and pets in the Peace Country of northern Alberta, Canada, where sweater weather lasts at least nine months a year and my closest neighbours are bears and wood nymphs.

This website is a labour of love by a team of one (me!). If you found value here, please support the effort by purchasing a pattern. If you want more knitting magic, check out my community events and newsletter in the Knitting Circle. We’d love to have you!